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ITApartments and holiday homes on Vis
One of Croatia's most remote inhabited islands, out in the open central Adriatic: two small harbour towns, clear open sea, sea caves and a slower pace, a little over two hours by ferry from Split.
Search stays on VisVis lies far out in the open sea, and that distance shaped it. From the end of the Second World War until 1989 it was a Yugoslav military zone closed to foreign visitors, so it never saw the big hotel building of the 1970s and 1980s. Today that is its charm: stone villages, vineyards, empty coves and water that is clear even by Adriatic standards.
The island has two towns about 11 km apart. Vis town sits in a deep bay on the north-east side, where the ferries arrive. It grew on the site of ancient Issa, a Greek colony of Syracuse founded under Dionysius the Elder in 397 BC, and it has Roman remains, Austrian-era forts and a long waterfront. Komiža, on the west coast under the slopes of Hum, is a fishing town with a Venetian tower that now houses the Fishermen's Museum, home to a replica of the falkuša, the traditional Komiža fishing boat.
History is everywhere. The Battle of Lissa between the Austrian and Italian navies was fought off the island in 1866, and in 1944 Tito ran the Partisan headquarters from a cave below Hum, the highest peak at 587 m. More recently, Komiža and Vis town were filming locations for Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again. Local wines are part of the visit too: Vugava is the island's white, Plavac mali its red.
Stay in Vis town for the ferry, the widest choice of restaurants and a sheltered bay for swimming; stay in Komiža for sunsets, fishing-town atmosphere and the boats to Biševo and the Blue Cave. A car or scooter helps if you want to explore the beaches between them. Vis suits couples, divers and anyone looking for a quieter island, and it rewards a stay of several days rather than a day trip.
Beaches
Stiniva
A small pebble cove closed off by tall cliffs, with only a narrow opening to the sea. Voted Europe's best beach in 2016 by European Best Destinations. You reach it by a steep path down from the road or by boat; bring water and sturdy shoes.
Srebrna
A long pebble beach on the south coast with open views and very clear water. It has little shade, so an umbrella helps.
Stončica
A sandy, shallow bay east of Vis town, near a lighthouse, good for children.
Milna and Zaglav
Two small sandy bays on the south side of the island, calm and easy for families.
Blue Cave, Biševo
The famous sea cave on the islet of Biševo, about 8 km by boat from Komiža. Small boats enter through a low opening and the water glows blue, best around midday in summer. It is open from April to October, closes in rough seas, and needs a separate entrance ticket.
Our photos: Vis and Biševo
Vis is a little over two hours from Split by car ferry, faster by catamaran. Taken by our team on the coast. Tap a photo to open it larger.
Getting there and around
Jadrolinija runs a car ferry from Split to Vis town, taking about 2 hours 20 minutes. A faster passenger catamaran (Krilo) links Split and Vis via Milna on Brač and Hvar in about an hour and a half. Book the car ferry early in July and August. On the island, a road of about 11 km crosses from Vis town to Komiža; there are local buses, but a car or scooter makes it much easier to reach the beaches.
Stays in Vis island right now
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Tips before you book
- Visit the Blue Cave in late morning for the best light, and check the sea forecast: it closes when the sea is rough.
- Stiniva is reached by a steep path: bring water and proper shoes, or go by boat.
- Book the car ferry from Split early in summer, especially on weekends.
- Vis has fewer shops and ATMs than the mainland; plan a little before you go to the quieter bays.
Frequently asked questions
How do you get to Vis?
By ferry from Split. The Jadrolinija car ferry takes about 2 hours 20 minutes to Vis town, and the Krilo passenger catamaran takes about an hour and a half, stopping at Brač and Hvar. There is no airport on Vis.
Vis town or Komiža?
Vis town is where the ferries arrive and has more restaurants and a sheltered bay. Komiža is a smaller fishing town on the west coast with sunsets and the boats to Biševo and the Blue Cave. They are about 11 km apart, so you can easily visit both.
When is the Blue Cave open?
From April to October, weather permitting; it closes when the sea is rough. The light is best around midday in summer. Boats leave from Komiža and Vis town, and the cave entrance ticket is paid separately from the boat trip.
Do you need a car on Vis?
Not in town, but it helps for the beaches. Buses link Vis town and Komiža; to reach coves such as Stiniva, Srebrna or Milna, a car, scooter or boat taxi is much more practical.